Total Pageviews

Tuesday 31 August 2010

City Rain

Tuesday, 31st August

Today it rained, then rained some more. This is our final day in Perth and the weather was so unpleasant we decided to make the trip into the city and undertake a spot of retail therapy – shops are centrally heated!

The bus stops right outside the caravan park, and with the fare only $1.50 per person each way, we agreed this was a far better option than driving, trying to find a car park and then paying expensive car parking fees. There were some “interesting” people on the bus, one person supplied “music” via his ear pods for half the passengers!

In the city we checked out the London Arcade – very Olde English – and then discovered a rather swish arcade, complete with male person informing all and sundry (me included) that we were f…. tarts! Don’t think he was on planet Earth. We spent some time, including lunch, in David Jones, which really is a very nice store.

The rained started in increase, and the temperature drop, so it was back to the caravan and the heater for the remainder of the day.

Monday 30 August 2010

Perth on Monday







Monday, 30 August

The car was booked in for a service this morning, which meant that we were both up in time to see the sunrise! Even with a minor hiccup when himself had to return to the caravan for his wallet (hiding on top of the frig), the car was ready about 10.30 am – much quicker than Darwin. While the car was being serviced, I took the opportunity to walk to the local shopping centre – and Bakers Delight!

Following lunch, we decided to check out the beaches of Perth and it was now that the rain, which has been forecast for the last three days, finally arrived. Consequently, we merely drove along the highway and roads beside the famous beaches, looked at Rottnest Island in the distance and the very nice houses up close.

With the weather being a little unpleasant, we called into the Westfield Carousel Shopping Centre for a wander and one of us had a coffee and donut while the other thoroughly enjoyed a pedicure!

Sunday 29 August 2010

Sunday in Perth




Sunday, 29 August

Yesterday evening we met Denis and Cathy for dinner and went to a lovely restaurant at South Perth, on a jetty and overlooking the city of Perth. A very enjoyable evening.

Another beautiful day, today, nice and warm – very pleasant, in fact. Unfortunately, Perth has some really weird shopping laws and, apart from the city centre, shops are not allowed to open. It took us quite some time to even find a shop to buy a loaf of bread! Perth’s annual City to Surf race took place this morning – we were a little late to enter and didn’t bring our lycras, anyway – and as quite a few roads were closed, we decided to give the area around the city a miss today.

Therefore, we decided to have a small drive up into the hills, stopped at a farmers’ market, which had numerous stalls of very expensive gourmet products, and spent the remainder of the morning looking for some bread!

This afternoon we really didn’t do very much at all.

Saturday 28 August 2010

New Norcia







Saturday, 28 August

We had a much milder start to the day, followed by warm sunshine and a temperature of about 24 degrees – much more civilised!

Today we set out for New Norcia, about 128 kms away, which is a Benedictine Monastery, complete with eight monks. It was a glorious drive, the countryside was so different to what we have become used to – rolling green hills and paddocks of wheat and canola, which is almost fluorescent. There were a few wildflowers to be seen, mainly wattles and broom, with a few patches of pretty blue flowers – much to Cat’s delight.

New Norcia is almost like a small village, completely owned and operated by the monastery – even the hotel. Two large boarding schools were built there early in the 20th Century (now no longer operating) to complement the monastery and its dealings with the local Aboriginal population, as well as the agriculture. We undertook a two hour guided tour – with about 60 people on the tour, it was a big much for the only guide – which was very informative and interesting. We were taken into the two prayer halls in the actual monastery as well as the church and the two school buildings with their painted chapels (boys and girls were definitely kept well segregated!). The convent now houses a museum and, of course, the gift shop. Lunch was enjoyed at the hotel, which was built especially by the monks for a non-eventual visit by Queen Isabella of Spain.

The monks still operate their bakery on a commercial basis, as well as an olive grove. Tourism is their business now – and they certainly try very hard to relieve the tourists of as much money as possible!

It really was well worth the visit and an enjoyable drive.

Friday 27 August 2010

Fremantle




Friday, 27 October

Another very cold night, but followed by a beautiful warm and sunny day. At last, the wind has dropped.

This morning we put TomTom to work again and took in the delights of Fremantle – a most delightful area which reminded us of Hobart. There were a lot of old buildings dating back to settlement in 1829 and many, many coffee shops! This district would absolutely buzz on a Sunday morning. We spent the morning wandering around and visited the Round House, which was the original gaol (but not for convicts) before the Fremantle Gaol was built (this only closed about 20 years ago). There was a wonderful view of the Fremantle marina (America’s Cup fame) as well as Rottnest and the other offshore islands.

We ambled on down to the Fishermen’s Wharf area with its numerable restaurants and chose the one advertising the “Best fish and chips in WA” for lunch. Good choice, as they offered a Senior’s Special of fish and chips plus genuine coffee and an icecream, all for $12! We sat right on the edge of their jetty/deck to eat, watching the fishing boats and speed boats moving in and out of the harbour, as well as a school of large fish directly underneath us. We were entertained by a cormorant that was very busy chasing small fish.

Of course, the beautiful weather helped make the experience more enjoyable.

Late this afternoon, I received a visit from a lady in the caravan behind us (fellow Tasmanians) and discovered it was Wendy Kelly, ex Don College! Small world.

Thursday 26 August 2010

To Perth
















Thursday, 26 August

We departed a very chilly Cervantes by 8.00 am for the drive to Perth. The estimated three hours stretched to four hours, with a few stops on the way to wander among the snake infested scrub looking at wildflowers – and taking more photos! We even saw a few kangaroos enjoying a wheat crop and a couple of emus

The wind had settled by the time we reached the Discovery Caravan Park at Perth and the temperature had risen to a very pleasant 18 degrees – definitely long pants and windcheater weather. The park is very nice (only tourists here), with a very large grass site and good amenities. A couple of men quickly appeared to help me direct Les onto site, and just as quickly decided to leave me to it!

This afternoon we decided to check out Kings Park but discovered something we haven’t seen since Melbourne – TRAFFIC!!! Kings Park was very nice, though, with all their wildflower beds in full flower and with the annual Wildflower Festival commencing next week, the whole park looks spick and span. We had a nice walk among the flowers, looked out at the look out and inspected the war memorial. We drove around the park, stopping at the Vietnam Veterans’ Memorial for a while.

Then it was back to the traffic and a slow return to the caravan park – thank goodness for TomTom!

Wednesday 25 August 2010

The Pinnacles





































Wednesday, 25 August

Happy 21st birthday to Laura!

A very brisk start to the day, with clear skies. Today we drove from Dongara to Cervantes and The Pinnacles. Unfortunately, we had a very strong, buffeting head/cross wind for most of the trip – not good for the fuel consumption! We also made numerous stops for photo opportunities (someone had been psyched up before we left!!!) of wildflowers (plenty more boring photos to come). Lots of different wattles to colour the landscape, with small understory and groundcover plants. It isn’t until one actually stops and walks around that the large variety of plants becomes obvious. We stopped to look at some white flowers and then realised that the little clumps of green scattered about were actually kangaroo paws. As we neared the coast again, the wattle became very low clumps, as well as prostrate.

We are staying at the Cervantes Pinnacles Caravan Park (the only one in Cervantes), which is on the beach and mainly full of permanent on-site caravans for holidaymakers. We have a reasonably large grass site and the amenities are older style but very clean.

This afternoon we drove to The Pinnacles – these unusual limestone rock formations are in the middle of a sandy desert only a few kilometres from Cervantes. We were here in 1986, and the place has certainly changed since then. There is now an entry fee, a discovery centre (and shop, of course), a walking track and car track. We decided to walk the 1.2 km walking track, which was probably closer to 3 kms in length, before undertaking a drive around the rock formations. There are a lot more people here now than in 1986!!!

The snake season in this area officially commenced this week and after seeing spotting an active stumpy tailed blue tongue this afternoon, the low temperatures probably aren’t indicative of reptile movement – wildflower photography now becomes a hazardous occupation!

Tuesday 24 August 2010

Dongara


Tuesday, 24 August

Another cold, dreary morning as we packed up for the 75 km drive south to Dongara. It really meant we had to go slow this morning, so as not to arrive too early. Shortly after leaving Geraldton, the road followed the coastline, with sandhills to the west of the road and farmland the whole way – green grass, sheep, cows, wheat and canola. We quickly gathered that this region is generally a bit breezy, as most of the trees, and the grass, were growing at an angle of 45 degrees or even parallel to the ground.

We are staying at the Big 4 Dongara Denison Holiday Park, which is a small park located right on the beach – a really nice little area. The amenities block is the best we have come across this year, which makes a nice change to some we have seen. Apart from a drive around town, which didn’t take very long, the remainder of the day has been spent enjoying the sunshine, which appeared not long after leaving Geraldton.

Monday 23 August 2010

HMAS Sydney Memorial











Monday, 23 August

A very cold start to the day, but at least it wasn’t raining. Mainlanders have a strange idea that Tasmania is extremely cold – all the time! – and refuse to believe that Hobart’s minimum temperature is usually higher than Perth’s. The day didn’t warm up very much, with high cloud cover and a rather nasty wind. Someone even donned his jeans, shoes and socks today, definitely under sufferance! We took the opportunity this morning to retrieve our warm clothes from under the bed and store the majority of our tropical gear (don’t think we’ll be needing them again).

This morning we visited the HMAS Sydney Memorial – a truly moving location. Situated on top of a hill, the memorial to the 645 men who died consists of a black granite memorial wall, a dome on seven pillars over the actual memorial, a stele of the ship’s bow and an amazing sculpture of a woman waiting. The dome consisted of 645 silver gulls, each touching another, to symbolise the souls of the lost seamen as they fly to another realm.

Today the shops were open and we were able to stock the frig and cupboards again. Diesel is becoming cheaper as we get closer to Perth, as well.

Sunday 22 August 2010

To Geraldton


Sunday, 22 August

The grey skies this morning very quickly turned to rain, before we packed up unfortunately. We decided to travel the coastal route to Geraldton, rather than back track to the highway – the distance was virtually identical. As we left Kalbarri, we spotted a whale having a splash in the rain. We did drive out of the rain, apart from a couple of small showers.

The road this morning took us along the coast, with its wattles and banksias, for about 100 kms. As we neared Port Gregory, we rounded a corner to behold an inlet/lagoon with PINK sand! Not a trick of the light either – the water/sand is actually processed for beta carotene. As we turned inland, we encountered “proper” farms with sheep, cows, green grass, wheat, canola and lupins – such a change from desert.

We are staying at the Sunset Beach Caravan Park at Geraldton, which is right on the beach – we will be able to listen to the waves tonight! We have a large site with a double concrete slab, so much nicer than dirt. A trip to the Geraldton Information Centre after lunch revealed that nothing happens in Geraldton on a Sunday – no supermarkets, no service stations, no shops.

Saturday 21 August 2010

Kalbarri National Park





































Saturday, 21 August

It was a bit cold this morning and we have to retrieve the heater from under the bed. It was a lovely sunny day, about 22, although there was a strong southerly wind blowing.

This morning we headed for Kalbarri National Park, with an unscheduled stop to watch the daily pelican feeding on the foreshore, along with many other tourists. This was supposed to happen at 8.45 am according to the signs and the brochures – the pelicans were waiting, the tourists were waiting, the pelicans waited, the tourists waited … After 30 minutes of waiting, we decided we didn’t really need to see a pelican eat a fish.

The drive into the national park was a bit corrugated in places and sandy in others – overall, it wasn’t too bad. We travelled through coastal scrub with a large number of wattles and banksias, smoke bushes and blackboys, as well as numerous smaller shrubs. Without the caravan following, we were able to stop and start at will; many photographs were taken.

The highlight of the national park is the Murchison River gorge and its sandstone cliffs. The first lookout we came to gave us a panoramic view of the region before we reached the most well known – Window on the World. This was a sandstone formation on top of a cliff and literally had a window in it. Of course, this is the spot that all the tourists (and tour buses) head for! We spent some time waiting for the English backpackers to depart and for an opportunity between the snap happy Japanese (Kodak must really regret the invention of digital cameras). It was here that many ground cover flowers were spotted, very tiny and very pretty, as well as some orchids and sun dews.

This afternoon we decided to have a look at the cliffs along the sea to the south of Kalbarri. These were quite awesome, although the strong wind made walking a little unpleasant. We were lucky enough to spot a few whales out to sea, as well.

Friday 20 August 2010

To Kalbarri











Friday, 20 August

Departed the delightful Monkey Mia this morning, headed for Kalbarri. The first part of the trip was retracing the 150 kms back to the highway junction at the Overlander Roadhouse. Again, it was a very pleasant drive through uninspiring scenery with a cloudless sky and little traffic.

Once we reached the highway, there was little change in the scenery except for the addition of thousands of feral goats. The road continued south for 64 kms without a bend and it was after this that we started to see some wildflowers, which quickly became lots of wildflowers! The low scrub became a bit taller and there were even some gum trees, with carpets of everlasting daisies underneath. The various wattles are starting to flower, we saw the occasional red grevillea and plenty of thryptomenes in full flower. Unfortunately, we weren’t able to pull off the road as much as one of us would have liked – the caravan can be a bit limiting at times.

Shortly before we reached the turnoff to Kalbarri, the desert suddenly changed to wheat and sheep farms – proper farms with green grass! As we neared the coast, this did revert back to desert and coastal scrub as we drove through the Kalbarri National Park before descending into Kalbarri. This is a lovely seaside town, which probably exists for the tourist market, given the large number of accommodation places. We are staying at the Kalbarri Tudor Caravan Park, which is very nice – we have a large site with a shade cloth “slab.” It is so nice not to have dirt and grit and dust.

This afternoon we had a walk to the information centre (we have decided that three or four nights would probably have been nice here), before returning along the beach and checking out the shops.

The weather has been kind today – about 21 degrees – although we did have a head/cross wind for most of the drive. We also received a very excited text message from Diane – Princess Mary was on their flight to Melbourne this morning!

Thursday 19 August 2010

Dolphins







Thursday, 19 August

The weather is starting to settle down, not as windy and about 23 degrees – very nice in a sheltered spot out of the wind.

One of us was ready at 7.30 am for dolphin spotting at the beach, along with about 500 other tourists! It was all very well organised by the Department of Conservation staff (they have obviously had plenty of practice), we were all lined up along the boardwalk and not allowed on the beach until given permission, then we were allowed into the water (still in a long line) to a depth of about 30 cms only. Well before this, there were at least 10 dolphins in the water, waiting. The ranger walked up and down along the line, being closely followed by one or two dolphins, and explained how the feeding had to be regulated in order for the dolphins to remain wild. Fifteen lucky people (not us) were chosen at random to feed five of the dolphins one fish each. Before the feeding was regulated, anyone could feed the dolphins at any time, as well as interact with them (not considered in the dolphins’ best interests). It was still a lovely experience, even without actually hand feeding a dolphin.

This really is a lovely place to stay for a few days, the beach is good, and there are boat tours one can undertake to view (hopefully) more dolphins, turtles and dugong. There is also a pearl farm here (see The Farmer Wants a Wife) with tours available to the workshop and pearl shop just off the shore.

Wednesday 18 August 2010

Monkey Mia











Wednesday, 18 August

Woke to clear skies after further rain overnight – and it was a bit on the chilly side, too. We left Carnarvon and continued south, heading for Monkey Mia and the Shark Bay World Heritage area. The road continued to be very good – wide and flat going – with low desert scrub similar to the previous days.

We made a small detour to Hamelin Pool to have a look at the stromatolites, which are living fossils created by cyonabacteria. (Google them for more information.) Shark Bay is only one of two places in the world where these exist. We were able to walk above them on a board walk, complete with very interesting interpretative signs. The sea at Hamelin Pool has a very high salt content and is extremely clear – definitely no swimming allowed here. The walk to the stromatolites took us past a shell block quarry (the beaches are made up of minute cockle shells), which was used to provide building materials for the pioneers.

We had a stop for lunch at the Denham Lookout before continuing to Monkey Mia and the caravan park at the resort. We had received reports from various people saying we shouldn’t stay here, but we have been very pleasantly surprised. The caravan park is part of a resort and is right on the beach where the dolphins come into (hopefully!!!) each morning. The ground surface is covered with the shell sand, our site is large and drive through and we have full use of the resort’s amenities. However, the water is not suitable for drinking or connecting to the caravan – full tanks are a must if coming here.

Lily and her two younger sisters are in the caravan park – we remember them well from Darwin!

Tuesday 17 August 2010

Rainy Carnarvon







Tuesday, 17 August

Today it rained!!! Well actually, it started raining last night and finally (hopefully) cleared mid afternoon, which allowed for the far more comfortable emptying of toilet cassette and filling of water tanks.

Despite the light rain early this morning, we set off for a drive through the horticultural district – and the anticipation of some cheaper fruit. (It is amazing how much cheaper fruit is at Woolworths here!) The amount of land under cultivation is immense, especially considering all the water for irrigation (and the town) is taken from a waterless river. A fair proportion of the crops are grown under netting, to protect from the wind, especially the table grapes. We stopped at a plantation with a roadside stall to buy bananas and tomatoes and the lady owner told us that people are now realising the netting is creating fungal problems due to the lack of direct sunlight – a grower lost his entire mature capsicum crop recently. After hearing how table grapes are sprayed at every stage of development, I’m not sure about eating grapes anymore (far better to drink them perhaps).

We stopped at the OTC (NASA) tracking station, which is no longer in commission and were able to climb up for a look at the rain clouds building up again over the ocean. The station was involved with the moon landing and was also the station routing the first international live television broadcast between Australia and England.

We completed the morning with a visit to Woolworths, as it was raining quite heavily by that time. We discovered (standing in the rain) that the entrance to the shopping centre was blocked by about a dozen rather noisy indigenous persons and quickly realised that it was literally “on for young and old!” One female in particular seemed to be a tad upset with all the other members of the group and it is amazing how some words, or one in particular, translate very easily from one language to another. We stood in the rain, will we push through, will we wait, push through, wait? In the end, we put our heads down and did a quick duck through the door. It wasn’t long before three large policemen arrived, which didn’t really do much to decrease the noise level.

The rain absolutely bucketed down at lunch time and it wasn’t long before we had a caravan site on a “canal development with absolute water frontage.”