27 May – Sunday
Left Vienna with regrets (especially the Hilton Hotel), vowing to return for a longer period of time. Much cooler today with rain developing. The drive through the Alps involved lots of tunnels and viaducts and some lovely scenery. Even with the rain, the clouds were fairly high and the mountains still visible, with pockets of mist and some cloud wrapping around the hills. Italy – and much heavier rain, in fact, the Venetian Plain had suffered a severe storm just before we drove through, the corn fields were under water, a large amount of wheat had been flattened and some trees were down.
Venice – first impressions were not good. Rainy, smelly, dirty with garbage floating in the lagoon. The boats which had been ordered for us hadn’t arrived, the tour director had to find others, it absolutely poured, the lagoon was rough, the boats dropped us at the wrong place and we had to walk through the rain and back streets to St Marks Plaza. We were supposed to have a welcome drink sitting in the square, making all the tourists jealous, but as it was too wet the tour director managed to get the café to let us inside. The Caffe Lavena is evidently pretty exclusive, being the oldest café in Venice (over 1000 years old) and the only one in the Square with live music. The violin, double bass and piano players were marvellous. Then it was back out into the rain for a walk to the boat and discovered that a regatta was being held, with everyone dressed in medieval costume. Another boat ride to Lido, where our hotel is, and what a difference! This island doesn’t have canals and crumbling buildings, it has a much more holiday feel to it, more like a seaside resort with a beach only a block away. The hotel is undergoing renovations on the outside, so the manager wanted to apologise and gave us all a glass of champagne on arrival. Venice is starting to look better!!!
Monday, 28 May 2007
Champagne on the Terrace
Our Viennese dinner and concert evening started with dinner at a restaurant with a Michelin chef. The four courses included raw beef, which Les decided to try (and survived!). Very nice meal, very tastefully arranged on the plates. The concert followed in the concert hall where Strauss supposedly conducted his orchestra. A nice light programme of Strauss and Mozart, with a couple of ballet dancers and opera singers. The soprano was lovely, the baritone was lovely to look at (he probably admired himself more than the women did) but unfortunately his voice didn’t live up to his looks. The concert finished with the Blue Danube, of course, then the Radezsky March as the encore, of course, then finally The Third Man theme. Champagne was served on the terrace during interval and we were taken home in a VIP double decker bus, complete with leather seats upstairs and a bar downstairs. A really pleasant evening which just added to the joy of hearing the choir of the Emperor’s church practising during the morning.
Saturday, 26 May 2007
Vienna
26 May – Saturday
Vienna – such a beautiful city we wished we could stay much longer to explore all the beautiful buildings and streets. Very, very hot today for our visit first of all to the Summer Palace – one really runs out of adjectives to describe these places as each is better than the last. I’m afraid Kensington Palace is rather a dump after seeing this place, which the Empress considered to be just a “cottage!” A look at the Crown Jewels (or State Insignia) and coronation robes followed. Whilst the crown, etc were great, the truly amazing objects were the medieval robes, all hand embroidered with gold and pearls. One of them took 15 men 10 years to complete! The visit to the Crypt dragged on a little, especially as the feet were protesting loudly by this time. Needless to say the food has been wonderful – who wants to eat white sausages when there are tortes, strudel and pastries on the menu!
The suitcases have now been re-arranged, with the warmer clothes on the bottom!!! The tour group are working out well, the average age probably about 55, with one 21 year old travelling with her grandmother. Mainly Australians, with 4 Americans, 4 Canadians and 1 New Zealander. The Americans are all women travelling together, there are 2 sisters from Australia, plus 2 other women together.
Vienna – such a beautiful city we wished we could stay much longer to explore all the beautiful buildings and streets. Very, very hot today for our visit first of all to the Summer Palace – one really runs out of adjectives to describe these places as each is better than the last. I’m afraid Kensington Palace is rather a dump after seeing this place, which the Empress considered to be just a “cottage!” A look at the Crown Jewels (or State Insignia) and coronation robes followed. Whilst the crown, etc were great, the truly amazing objects were the medieval robes, all hand embroidered with gold and pearls. One of them took 15 men 10 years to complete! The visit to the Crypt dragged on a little, especially as the feet were protesting loudly by this time. Needless to say the food has been wonderful – who wants to eat white sausages when there are tortes, strudel and pastries on the menu!
The suitcases have now been re-arranged, with the warmer clothes on the bottom!!! The tour group are working out well, the average age probably about 55, with one 21 year old travelling with her grandmother. Mainly Australians, with 4 Americans, 4 Canadians and 1 New Zealander. The Americans are all women travelling together, there are 2 sisters from Australia, plus 2 other women together.
Mozart
25 May – Friday
Early start again and another hot day. Exciting start to the day when we discovered what caused the loud bang at 2.00am. Our room was only 2 rooms away from the balcony at the end of the corridor and the balcony above gave way partly and large chunks of concrete fell onto the balcony on our floor – I’m sure our bus driver was on another floor! Anyway, it was on to Salzburg and Mozart. Had a wonderful Austrian guide to show us about Salzburg, even if she did walk very fast! Of course, we saw all the compulsory places like where Mozart was born, where Mozart lived, where Mozart drank coffee and where they make Mozart chocolates. It was extremely hot in the squares, probably well over 40o with the reflected heat as it was 30o in the shade. Then it was to Hitler’s Eagles Nest Retreat, quite an interesting (and perhaps uncomfortable) feeling to be going somewhere so closely associated with Hitler and the Nazis. We had to listen to a fair bit of Nazi and Hitler history on the way but it was certainly worth the lecture. What an amazing feat of engineering to build a house on a ledge nearly 1,000 metres above the valley floor, and construct the road to it and all done in 13 months (even during the winter). A tunnel approximately 100 metres long led to a lift 129 metres tall, which took us directly inside the house. Hitler never lived here, only visited 13 times, but the building was mainly used for conferences and to impress those that needed to be impressed! Needless to say, the view of the Alps was just spectacular!
Then on to Vienna – a very long day, not arriving until 8.00pm at the Hilton. Wow!!! I’m glad I’m not paying the full price of €529, room only of course. The bathroom is unbelievable, with gold fittings (not sure if I will ever work out how to use the shower!), ceramic holders for the tissues and cotton balls (of course), designer toiletries, two “toilets” and a rubber duck each! The drive through the streets of Vienna also had the “WOW” factor, the buildings were amazing, one hardly knew which way to look.
Early start again and another hot day. Exciting start to the day when we discovered what caused the loud bang at 2.00am. Our room was only 2 rooms away from the balcony at the end of the corridor and the balcony above gave way partly and large chunks of concrete fell onto the balcony on our floor – I’m sure our bus driver was on another floor! Anyway, it was on to Salzburg and Mozart. Had a wonderful Austrian guide to show us about Salzburg, even if she did walk very fast! Of course, we saw all the compulsory places like where Mozart was born, where Mozart lived, where Mozart drank coffee and where they make Mozart chocolates. It was extremely hot in the squares, probably well over 40o with the reflected heat as it was 30o in the shade. Then it was to Hitler’s Eagles Nest Retreat, quite an interesting (and perhaps uncomfortable) feeling to be going somewhere so closely associated with Hitler and the Nazis. We had to listen to a fair bit of Nazi and Hitler history on the way but it was certainly worth the lecture. What an amazing feat of engineering to build a house on a ledge nearly 1,000 metres above the valley floor, and construct the road to it and all done in 13 months (even during the winter). A tunnel approximately 100 metres long led to a lift 129 metres tall, which took us directly inside the house. Hitler never lived here, only visited 13 times, but the building was mainly used for conferences and to impress those that needed to be impressed! Needless to say, the view of the Alps was just spectacular!
Then on to Vienna – a very long day, not arriving until 8.00pm at the Hilton. Wow!!! I’m glad I’m not paying the full price of €529, room only of course. The bathroom is unbelievable, with gold fittings (not sure if I will ever work out how to use the shower!), ceramic holders for the tissues and cotton balls (of course), designer toiletries, two “toilets” and a rubber duck each! The drive through the streets of Vienna also had the “WOW” factor, the buildings were amazing, one hardly knew which way to look.
Friday, 25 May 2007
Innsbruck
24 May – Thursday
Another early start bound for Munich – a pity the bus driver didn’t remember Munich was south, not north! A quick u-turn and on to the Olympic city of Munich, driving underneath a castle on the way. The countryside was still fairly flat and planted out with wheat, barley, canola, corn and some potatoes. The livestock are still in their winter barns and will not be brought out into the fields until hay has been grown and cut. Munich is another medieval town (we are getting a bit blasé about them by now) and the coach dropped us in the most exclusive part of the city centre. One could fairly hear and see the Versace, Dior, Hermes, Louis Vouittan, etc managers rushing to shut their doors in case all these Aussie tourists marred their establishments. The glockenspiel in Marienplatz was still visible but unfortunately the remainder of the bell tower was covered in scaffold whilst the building was being renovated. However, we did get to see the actions of the figures. Munich centre also had a wonderful outdoor food market – fruit, vegetables, bread, fish, sausages, meats; the fruit was delightful. Weather still very hot – 28o.
From Munich it was on to Austria and Innsbruck for the night – about 2½ hours drive along a valley with the Alps rising on both sides. Similar but different to New Zealand in that the mountains have trees growing to the 4,000 feet level. Some snow still on the higher peaks and the sheltered valleys. The countryside was just like Heidi, with the traditional farmhouses and villages, forests and mountain meadows. A visit to the Swarovski Crystal Centre was a very enjoyable interlude (it is just amazing how some of this stuff just follows one home!!!). We also visited the famous Innsbruck Ski Jump and went right to the top – the jumpers definitely have to be mad! Then a drive through the hills through typical Tyrolean villages before a brilliant and noisy thunderstorm hit. A very nice dinner at the Hilton Hotel, with veal and apple strudel.
Another early start bound for Munich – a pity the bus driver didn’t remember Munich was south, not north! A quick u-turn and on to the Olympic city of Munich, driving underneath a castle on the way. The countryside was still fairly flat and planted out with wheat, barley, canola, corn and some potatoes. The livestock are still in their winter barns and will not be brought out into the fields until hay has been grown and cut. Munich is another medieval town (we are getting a bit blasé about them by now) and the coach dropped us in the most exclusive part of the city centre. One could fairly hear and see the Versace, Dior, Hermes, Louis Vouittan, etc managers rushing to shut their doors in case all these Aussie tourists marred their establishments. The glockenspiel in Marienplatz was still visible but unfortunately the remainder of the bell tower was covered in scaffold whilst the building was being renovated. However, we did get to see the actions of the figures. Munich centre also had a wonderful outdoor food market – fruit, vegetables, bread, fish, sausages, meats; the fruit was delightful. Weather still very hot – 28o.
From Munich it was on to Austria and Innsbruck for the night – about 2½ hours drive along a valley with the Alps rising on both sides. Similar but different to New Zealand in that the mountains have trees growing to the 4,000 feet level. Some snow still on the higher peaks and the sheltered valleys. The countryside was just like Heidi, with the traditional farmhouses and villages, forests and mountain meadows. A visit to the Swarovski Crystal Centre was a very enjoyable interlude (it is just amazing how some of this stuff just follows one home!!!). We also visited the famous Innsbruck Ski Jump and went right to the top – the jumpers definitely have to be mad! Then a drive through the hills through typical Tyrolean villages before a brilliant and noisy thunderstorm hit. A very nice dinner at the Hilton Hotel, with veal and apple strudel.
The Step
23 May – Wednesday
Another warm day, over 30o during the afternoon, and once again, no wind. An early call again this morning and on the road by 7.30am bound for Heidelberg. The very small hotel courtyard made for some interesting bus parking, and along with the very narrow, low archway entrance, the bus driver was certainly challenged. So much so that when we left the front door of the hotel was left open and we took it with us! The sun rising through the mist on the Rhine was breathtaking. Heidelberg Castle, made of pink sandstone and mainly ruins, was just stunning, perched high above the university city, with its old buildings. Then it was on to Rothenberg (THAT town) for lunch and visits to the Christmas and other shops. Pleased to say that Pauline survived the steps this year and made it back to the bus on her own two legs. Following the visit to Rothenberg there was a 45 minute drive to Nordlingen which took 2¾ hours as the autobahn was closed owing to an accident and the coach was “parked” for more than hour before we were able to get onto the country roads. We have an Italian bus driver, using an Italian GPS, but he managed to drive us through small rural Bavarian villages and farms and find his way to Nordlingen. This is also a walled medieval town but not as commercial or touristy as Rothenberg. Les discovered the perfect German souvenir but unfortunately it wouldn’t fit in his suitcase. Dinner tonight at the Klosterle Hotel included some more traditional dishes – pork! Following dinner a few of us climbed the town wall and walked part of the way around it. Wonderful to have such warm evenings!
Another warm day, over 30o during the afternoon, and once again, no wind. An early call again this morning and on the road by 7.30am bound for Heidelberg. The very small hotel courtyard made for some interesting bus parking, and along with the very narrow, low archway entrance, the bus driver was certainly challenged. So much so that when we left the front door of the hotel was left open and we took it with us! The sun rising through the mist on the Rhine was breathtaking. Heidelberg Castle, made of pink sandstone and mainly ruins, was just stunning, perched high above the university city, with its old buildings. Then it was on to Rothenberg (THAT town) for lunch and visits to the Christmas and other shops. Pleased to say that Pauline survived the steps this year and made it back to the bus on her own two legs. Following the visit to Rothenberg there was a 45 minute drive to Nordlingen which took 2¾ hours as the autobahn was closed owing to an accident and the coach was “parked” for more than hour before we were able to get onto the country roads. We have an Italian bus driver, using an Italian GPS, but he managed to drive us through small rural Bavarian villages and farms and find his way to Nordlingen. This is also a walled medieval town but not as commercial or touristy as Rothenberg. Les discovered the perfect German souvenir but unfortunately it wouldn’t fit in his suitcase. Dinner tonight at the Klosterle Hotel included some more traditional dishes – pork! Following dinner a few of us climbed the town wall and walked part of the way around it. Wonderful to have such warm evenings!
Germany
22 May – Tuesday
Very early wake up call at 5.50am for a 7.30am start. Weather was very foggy and raining which had cleared by the time we arrived at Cologne at lunchtime – suddenly it was sunny and 26o. Time was spent inspecting the magnificent Gothic cathedral, about the only building left standing in Cologne after the Second World War. Then it was on to Boppard to board our boat for a cruise down the Rhine past many castles, quaint towns and vertical vineyards. The weather was so warm we were able to sit outside at the front of the boat! Our hotel for the night was a most charming traditional German building in Rudesheim on the banks of the Rhine. Such a beautiful and picturesque village, full of twisting, narrow and cobbled laneways, many restaurants and numerous souvenir shops, of course. Right beside the hotel is an old bell tower with bells that chime every hour and figures that revolve – it is very loud and we are glad our room is on the other side. Dinner (included) could hardly have been called typically German – chicken and chips with salad!
Very early wake up call at 5.50am for a 7.30am start. Weather was very foggy and raining which had cleared by the time we arrived at Cologne at lunchtime – suddenly it was sunny and 26o. Time was spent inspecting the magnificent Gothic cathedral, about the only building left standing in Cologne after the Second World War. Then it was on to Boppard to board our boat for a cruise down the Rhine past many castles, quaint towns and vertical vineyards. The weather was so warm we were able to sit outside at the front of the boat! Our hotel for the night was a most charming traditional German building in Rudesheim on the banks of the Rhine. Such a beautiful and picturesque village, full of twisting, narrow and cobbled laneways, many restaurants and numerous souvenir shops, of course. Right beside the hotel is an old bell tower with bells that chime every hour and figures that revolve – it is very loud and we are glad our room is on the other side. Dinner (included) could hardly have been called typically German – chicken and chips with salad!
Tuesday, 22 May 2007
Amsterdan
20 May - Sunday
The alarm was set for 4.15am and the taxi booked for 5.00am, ready to join the Insight Tour departing at 5.45am from London bound for Amsterdam. Beautiful clear skies in London after a fairly noisy night with football fans either celebrating or drowning their sorrows! A pleasant drive through the Kent countryside with its green fields, fruit trees, hops and cereal crops before arriving at Dover for the Channel crossing. Fortunately, the sea was like a millpond J and Pauline was very happy. Our tour coach and driver were waiting for us at Calais, unlike another group who had not only lost their coach, but guide as well. A long drive through the flat fields of France, Flanders, Belgium and the Netherlands, with rain for the last half of the journey.
Overnight at the Sofitel Hotel, a very night room with a bed with “a mattress, feather over-mattress, duvet and pillows. All designed to create a delicious new experience when you go to sleep. Slip between down comfort and plump plumettes into the heart of your nest. Soft, fluffy…” We may never be seen again!!!
21 May – Monday
Leisurely start this morning, especially after all the feathers! First port of call was the diamond factory, much to the delight of all the ladies – a couple even made purchases while the rest of us just wished! A quick visit to a Gouda cheese factory (very smelly, Emma) and a clog making demonstration before a lunch stop at Volendam – a very pretty fishing village, but also very touristy. On our return to Amsterdam, we strolled to Anne Frank’s House – very moving and emotive. Whilst there were a large number of people there, no one spoke. Whilst a large part of the original warehouse have been restored, the actual annexe that Anne lived in has been left as it was, but without the actual furniture. Even the cut out pictures and postcards she pasted to the wall of her room are still in place.
Afterwards we continued a walk around the canals and centre of Amsterdam, a pretty city marred by graffiti, grime and its sex and drug industry. Luckily, the weather today has been mild, although very hazy and cloudy.
The alarm was set for 4.15am and the taxi booked for 5.00am, ready to join the Insight Tour departing at 5.45am from London bound for Amsterdam. Beautiful clear skies in London after a fairly noisy night with football fans either celebrating or drowning their sorrows! A pleasant drive through the Kent countryside with its green fields, fruit trees, hops and cereal crops before arriving at Dover for the Channel crossing. Fortunately, the sea was like a millpond J and Pauline was very happy. Our tour coach and driver were waiting for us at Calais, unlike another group who had not only lost their coach, but guide as well. A long drive through the flat fields of France, Flanders, Belgium and the Netherlands, with rain for the last half of the journey.
Overnight at the Sofitel Hotel, a very night room with a bed with “a mattress, feather over-mattress, duvet and pillows. All designed to create a delicious new experience when you go to sleep. Slip between down comfort and plump plumettes into the heart of your nest. Soft, fluffy…” We may never be seen again!!!
21 May – Monday
Leisurely start this morning, especially after all the feathers! First port of call was the diamond factory, much to the delight of all the ladies – a couple even made purchases while the rest of us just wished! A quick visit to a Gouda cheese factory (very smelly, Emma) and a clog making demonstration before a lunch stop at Volendam – a very pretty fishing village, but also very touristy. On our return to Amsterdam, we strolled to Anne Frank’s House – very moving and emotive. Whilst there were a large number of people there, no one spoke. Whilst a large part of the original warehouse have been restored, the actual annexe that Anne lived in has been left as it was, but without the actual furniture. Even the cut out pictures and postcards she pasted to the wall of her room are still in place.
Afterwards we continued a walk around the canals and centre of Amsterdam, a pretty city marred by graffiti, grime and its sex and drug industry. Luckily, the weather today has been mild, although very hazy and cloudy.
London
17 May – Thursday
Time to leave Ireland for England and three nights in London. The flight to London was without mishap and we eventually arrived, via the Underground, at the Westpoint Hotel, Paddington. Unfortunately, we didn’t have a very good start to our stay here. Our room (which was booked over six months ago) was in the basement and had a window which looked at a dirty brick wall about 5 feet away. This was only discovered after taking about 15 minutes to find our room as the receptionist told us to take the wrong lift and a cleaner took us all over the hotel trying to find this room in the bowels of the hotel. So it was back to reception to have a small grizzle and we were promptly given another room on the second floor which had a window overlooking the leafy street.
Met Les’ nephew, Justin, for a drink and dinner – a great evening catching up with Justin and a great meal at a small Italian restaurant nearby.
18 May – Friday
A day for sore feet! Started out bright and early on a most brilliant day – clear blue skies and warm, definitely t-shirt and sunscreen weather. A walk through Kensington Gardens to visit Peter Pan and the Diana Memorial Fountain, before walking to the Albert Memorial. A television company were filming an episode of “Spooks” on the steps of the Memorial while we were there – lots of vans full of equipment and people standing about and we actually watched them film three men walk down the steps! Then it was to Kensington Palace and a tour of Princess Margaret’s apartment and a look at some of Diana’s dresses, as well as a large number of the Palace rooms.
Back to the Underground and to Trafalgar Square, a walk along the Embankment, across the Thames and back to the Houses of Parliament, Churchill’s War Cabinet Rooms, Downing Street and the Horse Guards before a limp up The Mall to Buckingham Palace.
The weather was so nice that all the deck chairs were out in all the parks and there seemed to be so many more people about. The pushchairs (strollers) were out in force as well, many with a parasol attached to protect the infant from “the sun.”
19 May – Saturday
Our final day in London started out bright and sunny but soon changed to cloudy and cool. Another long day on the feet which started with a boat ride down the Thames to Greenwich – the river has a tidal fall of 7.5 metres and the tide was out! The change in the buildings between the city and the east end is very noticeable, as the east end was virtually demolished by bombing during the war and has been rebuilt. Greenwich had a real “village” feel to it, with lots of markets (Les bought a copy of Rutherforde’s London just to add 5 kg to his luggage!) and plenty of eating places. Of course, the main reason for visiting Greenwich is to visit the Royal Observatory and, together with many, many other people, stand either side of the meridian line. The Observatory also happens to be built on the top of a HILL, about the only hill in London. More walking (and sighting another squirrel) to the Maritime Museum and the chance to make whirlpools and waves and well as view the many exhibits, including Nelson. Unfortunately, the Cutty Sark is being renovated and hidden behind high hoardings.
Back to London and Paddington via Canary Island – how this has changed since the time of hulks and transportation. Now it is all modern buildings and shopping malls, courtesy of Margaret Thatcher. The FA Cup Final was on at Wembly this afternoon and there was a very large police presence at the station where most spectators would change trains. At least, we assumed all the police were there because of the football!
We will certainly not miss the London plane trees, which are shedding pollen at the moment – very hard on the eyes. Another little intrigue has been why this hotel has hot water connected to the toilet cisterns!!!
Time to leave Ireland for England and three nights in London. The flight to London was without mishap and we eventually arrived, via the Underground, at the Westpoint Hotel, Paddington. Unfortunately, we didn’t have a very good start to our stay here. Our room (which was booked over six months ago) was in the basement and had a window which looked at a dirty brick wall about 5 feet away. This was only discovered after taking about 15 minutes to find our room as the receptionist told us to take the wrong lift and a cleaner took us all over the hotel trying to find this room in the bowels of the hotel. So it was back to reception to have a small grizzle and we were promptly given another room on the second floor which had a window overlooking the leafy street.
Met Les’ nephew, Justin, for a drink and dinner – a great evening catching up with Justin and a great meal at a small Italian restaurant nearby.
18 May – Friday
A day for sore feet! Started out bright and early on a most brilliant day – clear blue skies and warm, definitely t-shirt and sunscreen weather. A walk through Kensington Gardens to visit Peter Pan and the Diana Memorial Fountain, before walking to the Albert Memorial. A television company were filming an episode of “Spooks” on the steps of the Memorial while we were there – lots of vans full of equipment and people standing about and we actually watched them film three men walk down the steps! Then it was to Kensington Palace and a tour of Princess Margaret’s apartment and a look at some of Diana’s dresses, as well as a large number of the Palace rooms.
Back to the Underground and to Trafalgar Square, a walk along the Embankment, across the Thames and back to the Houses of Parliament, Churchill’s War Cabinet Rooms, Downing Street and the Horse Guards before a limp up The Mall to Buckingham Palace.
The weather was so nice that all the deck chairs were out in all the parks and there seemed to be so many more people about. The pushchairs (strollers) were out in force as well, many with a parasol attached to protect the infant from “the sun.”
19 May – Saturday
Our final day in London started out bright and sunny but soon changed to cloudy and cool. Another long day on the feet which started with a boat ride down the Thames to Greenwich – the river has a tidal fall of 7.5 metres and the tide was out! The change in the buildings between the city and the east end is very noticeable, as the east end was virtually demolished by bombing during the war and has been rebuilt. Greenwich had a real “village” feel to it, with lots of markets (Les bought a copy of Rutherforde’s London just to add 5 kg to his luggage!) and plenty of eating places. Of course, the main reason for visiting Greenwich is to visit the Royal Observatory and, together with many, many other people, stand either side of the meridian line. The Observatory also happens to be built on the top of a HILL, about the only hill in London. More walking (and sighting another squirrel) to the Maritime Museum and the chance to make whirlpools and waves and well as view the many exhibits, including Nelson. Unfortunately, the Cutty Sark is being renovated and hidden behind high hoardings.
Back to London and Paddington via Canary Island – how this has changed since the time of hulks and transportation. Now it is all modern buildings and shopping malls, courtesy of Margaret Thatcher. The FA Cup Final was on at Wembly this afternoon and there was a very large police presence at the station where most spectators would change trains. At least, we assumed all the police were there because of the football!
We will certainly not miss the London plane trees, which are shedding pollen at the moment – very hard on the eyes. Another little intrigue has been why this hotel has hot water connected to the toilet cisterns!!!
Thursday, 17 May 2007
Dublin
16 May – Wednesday
Our last full day in Ireland was spent in Dublin, where we made good use of the Hop On Hop Off Bus. A cold, wet and miserable day, we made our first stop at Trinity College to view the Book of Kells – impossible to describe the illuminations and comprehend the sheer work that went into producing these manuscripts/books. Then on to the National Library, where we spent some time searching the records for Michael Ross Connell. Although we found the parish records for Dunlavin in 1851 without any trouble, the writing was too faint to be legible. So it would appear that the origins of Michael, and his mother, will remain a mystery. The Natural History Museum has displays of gold jewellery dating back more than 3000 years, plus human remains (or parts thereof) over 1500 years old – all discovered in Irish bogs! Even clothing from the 17th Century has been recovered from bogs, looking exactly as it did when buried. A quick visit to Dublin Castle in the freezing rain, to discover we couldn’t enter owing to a private function. So it was on to St Patrick’s Cathedral, which together with Christ Cathedral, are both Church of Ireland (Anglican) cathedrals, not Catholic. The tour continued to the Guinness Brewery, Kilmainham Gaol, National Museum, Jameson Distillery and Parnell Square. We gave the Guinness Brewery as miss, as the weather was so unpleasant.
Our last full day in Ireland was spent in Dublin, where we made good use of the Hop On Hop Off Bus. A cold, wet and miserable day, we made our first stop at Trinity College to view the Book of Kells – impossible to describe the illuminations and comprehend the sheer work that went into producing these manuscripts/books. Then on to the National Library, where we spent some time searching the records for Michael Ross Connell. Although we found the parish records for Dunlavin in 1851 without any trouble, the writing was too faint to be legible. So it would appear that the origins of Michael, and his mother, will remain a mystery. The Natural History Museum has displays of gold jewellery dating back more than 3000 years, plus human remains (or parts thereof) over 1500 years old – all discovered in Irish bogs! Even clothing from the 17th Century has been recovered from bogs, looking exactly as it did when buried. A quick visit to Dublin Castle in the freezing rain, to discover we couldn’t enter owing to a private function. So it was on to St Patrick’s Cathedral, which together with Christ Cathedral, are both Church of Ireland (Anglican) cathedrals, not Catholic. The tour continued to the Guinness Brewery, Kilmainham Gaol, National Museum, Jameson Distillery and Parnell Square. We gave the Guinness Brewery as miss, as the weather was so unpleasant.
Wednesday, 16 May 2007
The Irish Experience
10 MAY – Thursday
Shan and Jack arrived promptly at 8.10am to take us to the airport. No problems with checking in before proceeding to the Qantas Club lounge. Departed Hobart on time at 10.30am, arriving Sydney 12.15pm. Transferred to International Terminal and whilst waiting in the line at Customs, realised that Bev and Max, who were on the 2006 Insight Tour of Europe, were standing in the queue behind us! Yells and hugs all round. They were off to Spain later in the afternoon, so, even though we only had a short time before loading, we were able to have a coffee together and catch up. Such a spooky coincidence! After we had had our rather ordinary coffee, we discovered we were all members of the Qantas Club and could have been sitting in comfort and drinking and eating for free!
The plane to Hong Kong was an Airbus, which meant with only two seats on each side and four in the centre, we didn’t have to worry about getting in and out of our seats for a walk, etc. The plane was probably only 2/3 full. Good flight to Hong Kong, Qantas water and feed passengers on a very regular basis. Not only drinks and water every hour, but also hot chocolate and chamomile tea were offered. Two main meals and lots of movies to watch. I watched Miss Potter (Hilltop Farm is a definite must to visit now), Becoming Jane and The Queen. Miss Potter was great – definitely a must see for all Beatrix Potter fans. The 9 ½ hour flight landed at 10.00pm Hong Kong time following a very spectacular lightning storm!
11 May – Friday
Departed Hong Kong on a British Airways 747-400, which was fully loaded. The pilot seemed to taxi forever (thought for a while we were taking the overland route!) before finding the runway. The weather over China was clear and it was amazing just how many towns there were, apparent from the lights. Whilst it was dark and we couldn’t see much of Hong Kong itself, the harbour was full of ships. The flight over Russia was great, as we followed the sunrise. The sky was clear and we were able to see all the lakes and rivers – just amazing. Also flew directly over St. Petersburg. We were given a hot meal immediately after take-off at 11.30pm and then settled down to have 6 hours sleep. No further cabin service from BA, apart from a juice, until an hour before landing when they served breakfast. Landed at Heathrow at 5.00am.
Security was very tight, and rather bemusing, with us only being allowed to carry one item. This meant that my handbag had to be put in my cabin bag and the laptop bag had to go in Les’s cabin bag while he carried the computer. It didn’t matter that we couldn’t close the bags! When we arrived at the screening point, everything was taken out anyway and then it was back to normal! Even though the Dublin flight left from the same terminal as we arrived, it was at least a 30 minute walk, so we were very glad that we allowed the extra hour between flights.
Weather in London cloudy and cool.
Oh No – No Bags
The flight to Dublin went well, although we did have some degree of difficulty in understanding the flight attendant’s announcements! Unfortunately, everything went downhill from thereon in. We stood at the luggage carousel and waited and waited and waited – neither my nice new red, matching suitcase or Les’ black suitcase appeared. Aer Lingus told us it happened every flight out of Heathrow and they would probably turn up on the next flight (which they didn’t!). We have to wait three days before being able to make any sort of claim. As we really couldn’t afford the time to wait in Dublin in case the luggage arrived, we collected our hire car, a small Fiat with baby mouse legs (Europcar no longer supply maps), found our way out of Dublin and proceeded to Galway. Due to major roadworks, we were forced to drive through some of the quaintest villages – exactly as we imagine Ireland to be. There also are very many pubs! Question: Why is Ireland so green? It rains a lot!
Galway is also typical Ireland, with narrow, windy streets and buildings right on the footpath. Found a nice bed and breakfast at Salthill, overlooking Galway Bay (unfortunately it is raining, so wont be much of a sunset!).
8.00 pm and a telephone call from Aer Lingus to say our luggage had arrived in Dublin and would be on a plane to Galway at 10.00 pm. Rather than wait until they were delivered sometime before lunch the following day, we offered to collect them from the airport. Slept much better after this.
12 May - Saturday
Awoke after 11 hours sleep to heavy rain, which soon stopped but remained cold. Went for a walk before breakfast at 8.30 am (a bit late for our liking!) and then left for the airport and our cases. Fairly easy to find our way through Galway as there wasn’t a great deal of traffic on Saturday morning. Saw a man fly fishing in the river in the middle of town – not the place one expects to find fishermen! Continued to the Cliffs of Moher, driving through very barren and stony fields with stone walls for fences. It is easy to see why this area of Ireland suffered so badly during the famine. Quite a few houses have thatched roofs, with a fair bit of slate being used as well. It seems strange to us to see so many new housing developments, each having only one house design – not unusual to see 100 identical houses in the one estate.
Roads are very narrow, even the “main” roads, with no verges and no where to pull off and take photos. Ruins of castles are quite commonplace and often quite close together.
The Cliffs of Moher were quite spectacular, and the new development of tracks and stone fences has made them much safer for the many, many tourists. We were very lucky with the weather as it didn’t rain while we there, nor was it very windy. Given the horizontal growth of the hawthorn hedges in the area, the lack of wind was probably a bit unusual.
After leaving the cliffs, it was on to Killarney for an overnight stop. The countryside is now much lusher and less stony, hillier with mountains in the distance.
With so many tourists about (and this isn’t even the summer season), we have found it somewhat frustrating that there is so little tourist information available. Very few information places and virtually no brochures/information on local attractions to visit.
13 May – Sunday
Left Killarney early for the Ring of Kerry. Weather was cloudy and COLD. First stop was at a depiction of a bog cutters’ village – thatched cottages, peat fires and Irish wolfhounds. Continued on to “Casivene” and the castle which was the seat of the McCarthy’s. Very picturesque villages and smugglers’ coves, bare mountains, some forests, wild rhododendrons and VERY windy, VERY narrow and VERY bumpy roads. Finished the Ring at Muckross House, a magnificent 19th Century house, masses of bluebells in the woods and formal gardens. Gave the jaunting car a miss and is was raining, we didn’t really have the time and it was quite expensive (€30). On to Blarney for an overnight stay, rained heavily all the way. However, the rain certainly doesn’t detract from the beauty of Ireland, in fact, the softness of the rain seems to be really in keeping with the country.
14 May – Monday
Woke to blue skies and sunshine and the best breakfast so far. First stop was Blarney Castle and a long climb to the top for Les to kiss the Blarney Stone and Pauline to take photos! Then a stroll through the Rock Caves – a spooky and mystical part of the castle grounds with a Druids Circle (no one disappeared!), witches’ kitchen and fairy glen.
Then a sort drive into Cork and then on to Waterford. A visit to the Waterford Crystal Factory highlighted the reason for the high cost of Waterford crystal as 20% is rejected, broken and reblown, it is very labour intensive as the crystal is handmade completely. The obligatory visit to the gift shop (only way out!) resulted in the first of the Christmas decorations collection – unfortunately the €6800 chandelier wouldn’t fit in the suitcase. Pauline also had the opportunity to hold the Ashes Trophy – eat your heart out whatever the name of the English cricket captain was (everyone has forgotten by now!).
Then a short drive to Kilkenny which should have only taken about 45 minutes and took about 2 hours before we found a B & B. Very narrow roads, heavy traffic and a complete lack of available street directories and street signs made for a frustrating afternoon.
Kilkenny turned out to be a medieval town with castle (of course) and medieval church and other buildings, and even narrower streets! Looking forward to a walk around the town tomorrow morning.
15 May – Tuesday
Spent some time walking about the medieval town of Kilkenny – just amazing to walk around streets and buildings dating to the 13th century. Of course, the streets are still the same width, only the traffic has increased somewhat. Dinner the previous evening was in a “house of merriment” built in the 13th century. A walk around the extensive grounds of the very large, and in use, Kilkenny Castle revealed 3 squirrels – very exciting to see.
Then it was on to Dunlavin, the town that Les’ great-grandfather probably came from. Not much happens in Dunlavin!!! Continued to Dublin, returned the Fiat Punto and took the airport shuttle to the Best Western Academy Hotel. What a find for Dublin!!! Whilst the hotel is still under reconstruction and refurbishment, we have a room in the new building (I’m sure we must be the first to use it), wi-fi internet (if I can get it to work), LCD television, gorgeous bathroom and great bed. All for only $150, including breakfast.
Shan and Jack arrived promptly at 8.10am to take us to the airport. No problems with checking in before proceeding to the Qantas Club lounge. Departed Hobart on time at 10.30am, arriving Sydney 12.15pm. Transferred to International Terminal and whilst waiting in the line at Customs, realised that Bev and Max, who were on the 2006 Insight Tour of Europe, were standing in the queue behind us! Yells and hugs all round. They were off to Spain later in the afternoon, so, even though we only had a short time before loading, we were able to have a coffee together and catch up. Such a spooky coincidence! After we had had our rather ordinary coffee, we discovered we were all members of the Qantas Club and could have been sitting in comfort and drinking and eating for free!
The plane to Hong Kong was an Airbus, which meant with only two seats on each side and four in the centre, we didn’t have to worry about getting in and out of our seats for a walk, etc. The plane was probably only 2/3 full. Good flight to Hong Kong, Qantas water and feed passengers on a very regular basis. Not only drinks and water every hour, but also hot chocolate and chamomile tea were offered. Two main meals and lots of movies to watch. I watched Miss Potter (Hilltop Farm is a definite must to visit now), Becoming Jane and The Queen. Miss Potter was great – definitely a must see for all Beatrix Potter fans. The 9 ½ hour flight landed at 10.00pm Hong Kong time following a very spectacular lightning storm!
11 May – Friday
Departed Hong Kong on a British Airways 747-400, which was fully loaded. The pilot seemed to taxi forever (thought for a while we were taking the overland route!) before finding the runway. The weather over China was clear and it was amazing just how many towns there were, apparent from the lights. Whilst it was dark and we couldn’t see much of Hong Kong itself, the harbour was full of ships. The flight over Russia was great, as we followed the sunrise. The sky was clear and we were able to see all the lakes and rivers – just amazing. Also flew directly over St. Petersburg. We were given a hot meal immediately after take-off at 11.30pm and then settled down to have 6 hours sleep. No further cabin service from BA, apart from a juice, until an hour before landing when they served breakfast. Landed at Heathrow at 5.00am.
Security was very tight, and rather bemusing, with us only being allowed to carry one item. This meant that my handbag had to be put in my cabin bag and the laptop bag had to go in Les’s cabin bag while he carried the computer. It didn’t matter that we couldn’t close the bags! When we arrived at the screening point, everything was taken out anyway and then it was back to normal! Even though the Dublin flight left from the same terminal as we arrived, it was at least a 30 minute walk, so we were very glad that we allowed the extra hour between flights.
Weather in London cloudy and cool.
Oh No – No Bags
The flight to Dublin went well, although we did have some degree of difficulty in understanding the flight attendant’s announcements! Unfortunately, everything went downhill from thereon in. We stood at the luggage carousel and waited and waited and waited – neither my nice new red, matching suitcase or Les’ black suitcase appeared. Aer Lingus told us it happened every flight out of Heathrow and they would probably turn up on the next flight (which they didn’t!). We have to wait three days before being able to make any sort of claim. As we really couldn’t afford the time to wait in Dublin in case the luggage arrived, we collected our hire car, a small Fiat with baby mouse legs (Europcar no longer supply maps), found our way out of Dublin and proceeded to Galway. Due to major roadworks, we were forced to drive through some of the quaintest villages – exactly as we imagine Ireland to be. There also are very many pubs! Question: Why is Ireland so green? It rains a lot!
Galway is also typical Ireland, with narrow, windy streets and buildings right on the footpath. Found a nice bed and breakfast at Salthill, overlooking Galway Bay (unfortunately it is raining, so wont be much of a sunset!).
8.00 pm and a telephone call from Aer Lingus to say our luggage had arrived in Dublin and would be on a plane to Galway at 10.00 pm. Rather than wait until they were delivered sometime before lunch the following day, we offered to collect them from the airport. Slept much better after this.
12 May - Saturday
Awoke after 11 hours sleep to heavy rain, which soon stopped but remained cold. Went for a walk before breakfast at 8.30 am (a bit late for our liking!) and then left for the airport and our cases. Fairly easy to find our way through Galway as there wasn’t a great deal of traffic on Saturday morning. Saw a man fly fishing in the river in the middle of town – not the place one expects to find fishermen! Continued to the Cliffs of Moher, driving through very barren and stony fields with stone walls for fences. It is easy to see why this area of Ireland suffered so badly during the famine. Quite a few houses have thatched roofs, with a fair bit of slate being used as well. It seems strange to us to see so many new housing developments, each having only one house design – not unusual to see 100 identical houses in the one estate.
Roads are very narrow, even the “main” roads, with no verges and no where to pull off and take photos. Ruins of castles are quite commonplace and often quite close together.
The Cliffs of Moher were quite spectacular, and the new development of tracks and stone fences has made them much safer for the many, many tourists. We were very lucky with the weather as it didn’t rain while we there, nor was it very windy. Given the horizontal growth of the hawthorn hedges in the area, the lack of wind was probably a bit unusual.
After leaving the cliffs, it was on to Killarney for an overnight stop. The countryside is now much lusher and less stony, hillier with mountains in the distance.
With so many tourists about (and this isn’t even the summer season), we have found it somewhat frustrating that there is so little tourist information available. Very few information places and virtually no brochures/information on local attractions to visit.
13 May – Sunday
Left Killarney early for the Ring of Kerry. Weather was cloudy and COLD. First stop was at a depiction of a bog cutters’ village – thatched cottages, peat fires and Irish wolfhounds. Continued on to “Casivene” and the castle which was the seat of the McCarthy’s. Very picturesque villages and smugglers’ coves, bare mountains, some forests, wild rhododendrons and VERY windy, VERY narrow and VERY bumpy roads. Finished the Ring at Muckross House, a magnificent 19th Century house, masses of bluebells in the woods and formal gardens. Gave the jaunting car a miss and is was raining, we didn’t really have the time and it was quite expensive (€30). On to Blarney for an overnight stay, rained heavily all the way. However, the rain certainly doesn’t detract from the beauty of Ireland, in fact, the softness of the rain seems to be really in keeping with the country.
14 May – Monday
Woke to blue skies and sunshine and the best breakfast so far. First stop was Blarney Castle and a long climb to the top for Les to kiss the Blarney Stone and Pauline to take photos! Then a stroll through the Rock Caves – a spooky and mystical part of the castle grounds with a Druids Circle (no one disappeared!), witches’ kitchen and fairy glen.
Then a sort drive into Cork and then on to Waterford. A visit to the Waterford Crystal Factory highlighted the reason for the high cost of Waterford crystal as 20% is rejected, broken and reblown, it is very labour intensive as the crystal is handmade completely. The obligatory visit to the gift shop (only way out!) resulted in the first of the Christmas decorations collection – unfortunately the €6800 chandelier wouldn’t fit in the suitcase. Pauline also had the opportunity to hold the Ashes Trophy – eat your heart out whatever the name of the English cricket captain was (everyone has forgotten by now!).
Then a short drive to Kilkenny which should have only taken about 45 minutes and took about 2 hours before we found a B & B. Very narrow roads, heavy traffic and a complete lack of available street directories and street signs made for a frustrating afternoon.
Kilkenny turned out to be a medieval town with castle (of course) and medieval church and other buildings, and even narrower streets! Looking forward to a walk around the town tomorrow morning.
15 May – Tuesday
Spent some time walking about the medieval town of Kilkenny – just amazing to walk around streets and buildings dating to the 13th century. Of course, the streets are still the same width, only the traffic has increased somewhat. Dinner the previous evening was in a “house of merriment” built in the 13th century. A walk around the extensive grounds of the very large, and in use, Kilkenny Castle revealed 3 squirrels – very exciting to see.
Then it was on to Dunlavin, the town that Les’ great-grandfather probably came from. Not much happens in Dunlavin!!! Continued to Dublin, returned the Fiat Punto and took the airport shuttle to the Best Western Academy Hotel. What a find for Dublin!!! Whilst the hotel is still under reconstruction and refurbishment, we have a room in the new building (I’m sure we must be the first to use it), wi-fi internet (if I can get it to work), LCD television, gorgeous bathroom and great bed. All for only $150, including breakfast.
Thursday, 10 May 2007
Departure
The day has finally arrived after 50 very long weeks! The bags are all packed, the flights have been checked once again, the frig is empty and all we now require is Shan (and Jack) to arrive and transport us to the airport.
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